by Mark Bailey | Aug 18, 2017 | GardenLife Magazine, How to guide
Sloping garden design inspiration
5 ideas for hillside garden landscaping
Designing your dream garden can be daunting at the best of times; if you have a sloping patch, things can seem especially tricky. But there are a host of ways to work around the tilt.
Here are 5 tips on how to turn your garden’s awkward angle into an asset. They’ll help you conquer some of the commonest problems with poor sloping garden design – such as difficulties with mowing the lawn, half of the garden being un-used or un-usable, or soil erosion.
They’ll also give you alternatives to expensive and heavy-duty landscaping and retaining walls.
Include terracing in your sloping garden design
The traditional way to overcome your garden’s gradient is terracing – basically turning a slope into a series of flat surfaces with different levels and steps.
This makes gardening simpler, and allows you to use different styles on different levels.
Terracing materials can also be an intrinsic part of the sloping garden design. You can use a whole range of materials to terrace your garden, including different types of stone, wood, metal sheeting, brick and even old tyres. These allow a choice of eye-catching surfaces if your garden slopes upwards, and you’ll find plenty of inspiration on websites like Pinterest and Houzz.
However, if your garden slopes downwards, there’s less opportunity to create interest through the actual terracing materials.
The downside of terracing is that it can be intensive in terms of effort and cost, particularly if your slope is steep. Unless you fancy a challenge, have a tiny plot or really know your stuff, it is wise to consult a professional landscaper or builder. But a good garden designer will be able to suggest cheaper alternatives to building expensive retaining walls and foundations, as this blog on using old railway sleepers in a design shows.
Another cost-effective option for creating terracing is gabions. These are wire cages filled with stone, commonly used in civil engineering projects, such as road building, but used in garden landscaping too. They can be cheaper than building retaining walls, and also look more contemporary, as an interesting blog by Alda Landscapes shows.
Use planting to improve your hillside garden
A great way to manipulate the feel of your sloping plot is to play around with what plants you place where in the garden. For example, on land sloping downwards from the house, planting tall foliage at the bottom can reduce your perception of the tilt.
However, planting tall plants or trees at the high end of an upward-sloping garden could make it feel enclosed and overpowering. And looking upwards at a border can make tall plants look absurdly tall and dominating. So, as this advice in the Guardian shows, if you plant a border on a slope, you may have to relearn the rules about what should be planted where.
Plants can also be used to stabilise a slope and prevent soil erosion. There’s a good selection of low-maintenance, groundcover plants suitable for the steepest of slopes on this site, and they can add colour and texture to your sloping garden design..
Decking in a sloping garden design?
Installing decking and creating a wooden patio-type feature at the bottom of your garden can look really good as it will give the garden a focal point and catch the eye (in turn drawing attention away from the slant). It can also transform a neglected, unloved part of the garden into a social area, where you can entertain.
It can enable you to install a showpiece structure (which could be otherwise impossible given the incline) such as a water feature or pergola which is sure to be seen. And installing a garden shed or summer house on decking means you don’t have to worry about uneven, sloping foundations, or water pooling.
Do, if you have neighbours close by, do careful about installing a summerhouse or shed at the top of a garden slope – the effect could be a bit like a watchtower, with the neighbours feeling they’re under unwelcome scrutiny all the time (the photo above is of the lovely GardenLife Claudia clock-house style summer house positioned right at the top of a steep slope in a customer’s back garden – not our call).
For ideas on how to use decking in sloping gardens – plus words of warning about some of the pitfalls – have a look at the top deck website.
This is an aspect of sloping garden design where an angle is actually really useful as it gives you scope to install kinetic water features. Instead of a sedentary pond, you could have multiple pools connected by streams or small waterfalls (since the slope and gravity will do most of the work for you) – your very own miniature version of the famous waterworks at Chatsworth.
Or you could create a mini river-rapids style rock cascade – the Falls of Clyde in your own backyard. Having a dynamic feature like this could really command attention and bring the garden alive.
If you don’t have Chatsworth’s Capability Brown to design your water feature for you, there’s a good selection on the Primrose website.
Paths in a hillside garden
If terracing or decking are too high maintenance and/or costly for your sloping garden design, creating a inclined, winding walkway can reduce a slope’s prominence (whether it slopes upwards or downwards) and create a journey-like effect.
An S-shaped path with large sections of foliage will break up the space and take attention away from the slope whilst the hillside will give the path dimension.
However, if your garden’s list is particularly drastic, getting up or down path could prove impractical in winter weather or for the elderly, even if the path snakes across the hillside.
There is good basic and practical advice on building a garden path on the Wickes website.
Whatever you choose to incorporate into your new sloping garden design, the inspirational ideas, examples and links above should help get you started.
by Mark Bailey | Jul 20, 2017 | GardenLife Magazine
The best alternative to an overlap garden shed
Shiplap, weatherboard, tongue & groove, chalet cut; what’s the best alternative to an overlap garden shed?
If you’re buying a timber building for your garden, you want it to last. After all, why bother choosing and erecting a garden shed, workshop, summer house or office if it’s going to turn rickety, draughty or damp? Last year’s bargain overlap garden shed can quickly turn into next year’s source of regret.
So, how can you spot quality and durability when you’re buying a timber shed?
By looking at the wood, the build and the details. And you don’t need a background in joinery or construction to know what to look for.
With overlap, know what you’re getting, and you’re not getting much
Bargain garden sheds often have ‘overlap’ cladding – each thin piece of timber overlaps the timber beneath it, so that rain runs straight down the side. These sheds are cheaper than other types of cladding but they’re susceptible to warping and not very durable (overlap garden sheds often only use panels between 9 and 12mm thick).
Overlap cladding also can’t support anything heavy such as shelving on the internal panels – not exactly what you want for a workroom, storage area or office.
The alternative to overlap panels? Individual chalet cut timbers
Many overlap garden sheds (and also tongue & groove sheds) come with prefabricated cladding panels which you screw into place. The attractions are obvious – they’re fast to build.
The disadvantages are less obvious – for the first year or two at least. But after your first couple of winters, you may see warping in the timber. This is because wood swells or contracts according to the weather, which will take its toll on the build. The thin timbers can break (a risk that increases with age) and if the ground isn’t perfectly level they can begin to lean.
The best alternative to an overlap garden shed is a garden building that uses individual chalet cut tongue and groove timbers that physically slot together and intersect at the corners. GardenLife Log Cabins use this technique because the 28 – 44mm thick timber is far stronger, sturdier and long lasting, plus the individual timbers tighten and lock together during cold weather.
A garden building erected with individual chalet cut timbers may take a day to build (instead of a couple of hours for an overlap shed) but the pieces slot together like Lego bricks and they are designed for simple step-by-step self assembly.
An office with 12mm overlap timber panels? Forget it
Another disadvantage with overlap sheds is that the timber can be thin. Very thin.
As mentioned above, many budget overlap sheds use 9-12mm timber – either for overlap cladding or tongue & groove. Try sitting in one of these sheds after sundown or in autumn and winter, and you’ll quickly realise why Nordic shed-builders (who know a thing or two about timber) tend to use solid timber between 28 and 44mm thick.
With our own range of chalet cut timber garden buildings, we generally advise that 19 – 28mm thick timber walls are ideal for use in summer, with 28mm insulated enough for spring and early autumn use too.
Thicker timber – 34mm, 44mm or even 70mm – provides enough insulation and warmth for all-year round use – important if you’re looking for a workroom or garden office.
So, a 12mm overlap shed may look like a bargain. But you could end up spending all the money you save on buying polar exploration clothes to wear while you’re working.
There’s wood and then there’s wood
When buying a timber garden building, you want wood that’s dense and solid. And, in general, wood that grows slowly has a denser grain than fast-growing wood. That’s not the case with most overlap garden sheds (and also tongue and groove sheds) which tend to be made from pine softwood.
For this reason, GardenLife use Nordic spruce – the colder Baltic climate means it grows more slowly than Mediterranean wood. That means you get a more robust, solid building with greater structural integrity and weather resistance. The timber offers better insulation, and is less likely to warp.
Look north for great ideas
Another Nordic area of expertise is design. And one design idea we love is the concept of the Quick Fit range of garden buildings. These easy-to-build cabins have 18mm timber, a windproof internal membrane, and optional insulation that fits directly into the wall cavities, and can be hidden behind internal cladding for a smarter finish and a warmer environment.
Overlap just can’t compete – neither for warmth, nor for style.
What do heads and toes have to do with the best alternative to an overlap garden shed?
You know how the key to keeping warm in winter is to pay attention to your feet and head? How even the thickest coat won’t keep you warm if your feet and head are not covered up properly as well?
Think of the same principle applying to sheds and garden buildings. If you’re looking for robustness, longevity and insulation, check out the floor and the roof as well as the walls.
The OSB floors and roof that you’ll get with many budget overlap garden sheds just can’t match the better insulated, more durable 16-19mm thick tongue & groove roof and floor boards that we use at GardenLife. If you’re looking for the best alternative to an overlap garden shed and the description mentions OSB, look elsewhere.
The ins and outs of choosing doors
With doors, the same rules apply as with the walls. Overlap or tongue & groove doors will be flimsier and more likely to warp than solid doors. The words “security” and “overlap” combine just as well as oil and water – regardless of the type of lock used a 12mm overlap door panel is easy to break into (a good kick is all you need).
You should also pay attention to door frames. This is one of the first places where problems will set in with cheaper overlap sheds, with frames warping and doors (or windows) not closing properly. Once this happens, it’s extremely difficult to do anything about it and water will easily penetrate the interior.
So, look at the detail here. For example, are door frames laminated, or pressure-treated? And are door sills made of hardwood or metal, so they can withstand the passage of damp shoes going in and out? Many GardenLife buildings feature doors that are made from laminated Nordic spruce that offers true strength and rigidity as well as increased protection.
Not a details person? Maybe you should be
Look at the details of accessories and options. Are there secure cylinder lock doors or cheap fasteners or handles that require an optional padlock? Real glass windows – perhaps double-glazed – or just Plexiglass?
Such details could make a real difference to how your shed withstands the challenges of time and weather over the next few years, and therefore how much you still love and use it day to day.
The very best alternative to an overlap garden shed may be too expensive, not everyone’s budget would allow for a solid 70mm timber, double-glazed, multi-roomed garden building, and there are always compromises you’ll need to make to find a shed that fits your budget.
But if you do want to keep the cost down, it’s important to understand the different trade-offs and economies you can make – which ones will prove false, and which ones will still get you a long-lasting and well insulated garden building that will suit you for years to come. Cheap and easy doesn’t always stand the test of time.
by Mark Bailey | Jun 23, 2017 | GardenLife Magazine, New garden buildings, Website updates
New summer houses, sun rooms, sheds and more
Until recently, garden buildings generally came into two versions (and designs for new summer houses with few and far between). There were sheds, which were mostly utilitarian, and standard summer houses, which were mostly draughty (and often just looked like large sheds). Beyond that, the choices mainly involved deciding between large, medium and small, and, perhaps, what the doors were like.
In 2017, the picture looks very different. Garden buildings are now integral to how many of us live – places to work, entertain, chill out or exercise all year round. Because of this, the old choices of shed versus summer house, large versus small don’t cut it anymore.
Summer houses with bi-fold doors
At GardenLife, we continually add new models, designs and features to our range of timber garden buildings. We’re always in pursuit of your ideal – helping you find the dimensions, layout and design details that perfectly match your aesthetic or the way you want to use a garden building.
Take the new choices we’ve added to our range this year (some of which we’ve teased our Facebook followers with):
Already proving popular are our new bi-fold doors, available on our Ines and Lea summer houses. They open up most of the building width, ideal for parties or enjoying the sunshine.
The doors are double-glazed, insulated enough for year-round use. And to maximise light and airiness – in summer or winter – both models have optional side windows.
A gazebo with glass or timber sides (or neither)
‘Optional’ is a word we use a lot at GardenLife. As great believers in flexibility, we offer our new models with different configurations.
With our Lucy gazebo, for instance, you can have it with open sides; with solid timber wall elements; or with an option we’re especially proud of – wall elements with glass panels. You can tailor it perfectly to your garden and preferences, having wind shelter and views exactly where you want them.
New summer houses in different sizes, configurations and shapes
Another model that spoils you for choice is Melanie, now available in six– yes, six – sizes and configurations.
The underlying idea is the same for all six– it’s a corner summer house (for efficient use of garden space) with views and light on three sides. But you can choose between different dimensions or window sizes, and even add a splendid 8.3 sq m of covered space – somewhere for a barbecue, sandpit or hot tub, perhaps?
Other new sun rooms also come into different sizes and shapes. For example, Mary has the option of different sizes or roof extensions – great for storing logs, bikes or other equipment.
And our popular Lotta and Klara log cabins each come in three sizes. And we’re not talking small variations here.
The smallest version of Klara offers a useful and attractive 4.7sq m – perfect for a playhouse, summer house or painting space in a compact garden. In contrast, the largest Klara cabin has a whopping 17 sq m of space – enough for an entire painting class or army of small children.
On trend: new wood treatment and roof options
Another innovation for this summer is our new dip treatment options. As before, you can buy the cabins untreated, and apply wood preservative yourself. Or you can now buy them dip-treated, to protect the timber against mould, rot, wood-destroying fungi and insects.
You can choose between:
- grey, which makes the timber look aged and weathered (in a good way)
- brown, which intensifies the natural appearance of the timber, making it richer in colour
- clear, which gives you a blank canvas for any paint colour
On roofs too, there are new choices, with shingles now available in black, red and green.
And the rest: from a stunning verandah to guinea pig paradise
If you’re not already dazzled by the choice of new summer houses and sun room designs, we should mention a few new styles that are far outside the traditional shed/garden building spectrum.
A stunning addition is the Agneta garden cottage. As you’d expect if you’ve read this far, it comes into a choice of sizes. The larger version has a huge terrace on two sides – so much verandah space, you’re practically in Gone with the Wind territory.
Less grand but more contemporary and urban are Hedwig and Ethel – both slick, QuickFit designs with modern fine-sawn cladding – as well as large multi-room storage sheds Jari, Olaf and Kalle.
And last but certainly not least, there’s Roger, a seriously large and robust garage that could fit not only a large vehicle but probably several record collections, old mowers, a table football table and every bike your children have ever grown out of. And with 70mm timber walls, this garage should be warm and insulated enough for even the most pampered of guinea pigs.
So there are plenty of new summer houses and design features to tempt you, but as ever, we’ve kept the details that set our range apart – slow-grown timber, solid construction, robust fittings, durability, and good service. If you’d like to chat through any of the options, choices and practicalities, just get in touch – we’d be delighted to help.
by Mark Bailey | May 19, 2017 | GardenLife Magazine
What could gardening in a changing climate mean? An end to spring frosts? Palm trees or eucalyptus in your back garden? A green roof on your home or garden building?
They’re just some of the possible effects or opportunities that climate change could bring to you and your garden, according to a new report from the Royal Horticultural Society, called “Gardening in a Changing Climate”. Other possible impacts could include year-round lawn mowing, an increase in weather ‘events’ such as flooding, and an influx of new pests.
Fortunately, the RHS report has ideas for mitigating and adapting to these less welcome consequences of climate change.
North, south, east and west: the new gardening zones
Exactly what new opportunities and risks you face from climate change depends on where you live. Those in the south and southeast of England will face generally hotter and drier conditions throughout the year, though with occasional heavy rain showers. Further north, the weather will be milder than at present, but also significantly wetter and windier. The west will also see higher rainfall and warmer weather.
So while those in the southeast will be pondering issues around water conservation, and new possibilities around plants suited to arid conditions, those in the north, and also the southwest, will more likely be concerned with managing excess water, through solutions such as green roofs (to minimise run-off) and raised beds (to prevent plants being waterlogged).
Given these new conditions, when it comes to climate change and gardening you may need to rethink some of your approaches to the different parts of your garden, wherever you live.
Climate change and garden lawns
Lawns and turf will be particularly vulnerable to dry spells on one the one hand and wet ones on the other. Milder temperatures and higher rainfall in the west will extend the growing season – hence mowing may become necessary year-round (though waterlogging may make this difficult). But in the drier east the struggle to keep grass green may become too much of a chore, and the perfect English sward may become a thing of the past.
The options include converting lawns to borders, raised beds, dry meadows, gravel gardens, or – if you still want to look out on an expanse of green – an artificial lawn. If the latter already seems an attractive alternative to year-round mowing or a parched dust patch, you can see a good selection of artificial lawns on the Homebase website.
Choosing plants for gardening in a changing climate
Changing conditions will obviously affect the plants that you can grow and how well they do. Some gardeners will need to find out about drought-friendly plants such as agaves or blanket flowers, and perhaps read the useful article about drought-resistant gardening on the RHS site.
Meanwhile, other gardeners will be best seeking out a different article, about gardening on wet soils, and to gen up on plants that flourish in very wet climates such as hostas.
In addition, plants such as clematis and buddleia that are robust at withstanding wind, rain and whatever else the weather throws at them will become even more beloved to British gardeners than they are now.
One other thing to consider with climate change and gardening is that warmer summers will create prime pest conditions and aid the spread of diseases. It might therefore be useful to look at long-term anti-insect and pest protection solutions, such as planting sunflowers to attract pest eating bugs. There are some good ideas along those lines on the Grow Veg website.
Trees ideal for climate change and gardening
We’ve already mentioned the new opportunities here – from palms to olives to almonds – for those in the drier, hotter south and southeast.
But climate change may also bring more extreme winds, rainfall and other weather events, and warmer temperatures may up the requirements in terms of pruning. According to the RHS report, larger trees in wet soil are more vulnerable to wind-toppling, so smaller tree varieties will look more attractive. It may be time to start investigating the possibilities of small fruit trees or hardy softwood natives.
Gardening in a changing climate means that it is also worth thinking about trees that are able to withstand extremes of hot and cold temperature – the RHS report specifies spruce, Norway maple and Scots pine in this regard.
Do your bit for climate change in the garden
Most of us will probably have to adapt our garden plans in future, but we can also do our bit to mitigate climate change by making our gardens more eco-friendly right now.
Little things like using energy-efficient garden power tools and solar lighting; using peat-free compost; installing and using water butts, and avoiding pesticides and fertilisers with a high carbon count can all help to reduce any negative environmental impacts of your garden.
And if you’re thinking about garden design or some home improvements, bear in mind that green roofs and walls can reduce energy usage in homes and other buildings (not to mention providing food and shelter for native birds and insects), and planting trees and shrubs can help to lock up carbon from the atmosphere.
Converting concrete drives to gravel also reduces the chance of localised flooding as water can soak slowly through gravel instead of rushing straight into drains.
Growing your own fruit and veg helps too. A recent study showed that for every kilogram of vegetables you grow yourself, you could be reducing greenhouse gas emissions by as much as 2 kilograms (compared to buying from the supermarket).
For more tips on what climate change may do to your garden, how to adapt to it, and how to avoid your garden making it worse, you can read a summary of the RHS report.
If you want the full 80-page “gardening in a changing climate”, it’s available to download here.
by Mark Bailey | Apr 3, 2017 | GardenLife Magazine, How to guide
Square garden design – how to best transform your limited space
This month in our series on garden design ideas for different shapes of gardens, we’re tackling an all-too-common horticultural gripe; how to come up with a unique small square garden design. If you live in an urban or suburban area, it’s quite likely your garden is a little square-ish shape – not exactly the stuff of garden design fantasies.
But don’t be defeatist – with the right tricks, your handkerchief of a backyard can be transformed into a far less square, more spacious-looking area. To help you do this, here are 6 tips to create an inspiring and roomy square garden design with your box-like plot.
Curved lawns complement a square garden design
Let’s face it – a square garden with a square lawn isn’t particularly exciting. If you want to jazz things up, try changing your lawn shape – circular, oval or curved irregular shapes will all distract the eye from the box shape, and make your garden appear more creative.
Curves and arcs also create more opportunity for interesting borders, beds or small vegetable patches, or for foliage to break up the lawn. However, when using foliage to create visual interest, be wary of shrubs that are likely to grow too vigorously outwards – they will end up turning a compact square garden design into an even smaller one.
If you decide to use lawn shapes to break up the square, lawn edging is essential to keep the lines crisp and defined. Have a look at the different options for edging materials (from metal to bamboo to eco-materials) on the Primrose website.
Complement or contrast with borders and paving
Having borders, walkways and lines in your garden can take away from its squareness and create more of a visual (as well as physical) journey around the garden.
This approach can also help you create different sections, for example, a sinuous path to a relaxing or dining area can transform the look of the garden, and also the way you use it.
Wooden boardwalks are inexpensive but if you’re after a more robust alternative, stone bordering and edging are more versatile in terms of shape. And if you decide on a border for your new square garden design, there’s an inspiring ‘cheat’s guide’ to starting a border detailed in this article on the Guardian website, including the very tempting Garden on a Roll that does virtually everything for you except dig the bed.
Add height, steps or levels to break up your square garden
Introducing differing vertical aspects to your garden will help spruce up its appearance and profile as well as creating more interesting features.
You can combine this approach with the ‘journey’ tip above by raising your walkways or perhaps giving your decking some height, perfect for an al fresco dining section. Even a larger structure like a pergola or arch can do the job, as can raised beds around a central lawn.
A more natural approach is also effective – a row of small trees or tall plants like delphiniums contrasted with low plants can create interest and intrigue. There are some good ideas for tall border plants on the Thompson & Morgan site.
Use the walls or fence around your square garden to enhance it
In too many suburban and urban gardens, the walls or fences are bland or even ugly – they restrict your garden and act as boundaries, without actually adding any visual interest at all.
An excellent way to combat this can be to incorporate the boundaries into the design. Planting climbing plants up trellises on a wall or fence will create a more natural and organic feel, and make the garden feel less confined, without eating up as much space as a border.
You could even hang flower baskets or planters on a wall or fence, extending the planting space if your garden is tiny. For a good selection of wall planters have a look at the Woolly Pocket site.
Alternatively, try integrating raised beds with seating areas or a fountain into the fence or walls around the edge of your square garden design.
Sectioning; break your square garden into different zones
If you can take in everything in your garden at first glance, its squareness is going to be immediately obvious.
A great method to fix this is to compartmentalise your garden into different sections with different purposes. You can divide using borders, tall plants or trellises.
A dining area either right next to the house (for convenience) or at the far end of the garden (for a more getting-away-from-things feel) could be useful, while a shady spot, kids’ play area or small vegetable patch could be useful and easily accomplished.
There are some inspiring ideas for small gardens (though not all of them are square in shape) on the Ideal Home website.
Add a structure or garden building to disguise the square shape
Having a focal point to grab the attention will disguise the squareness of your garden – whether a pergola, gazebo, summer house or garden office.
Bear in mind a non-square or non-rectangular shape will likely achieve this goal better, as well as using space more efficiently, so look at corner buildings and circular or hexagonal shapes.
Remember that, in most circumstances in the UK, a building within 2 metres of a boundary wall will require planning permission if it is over 2.5m high, so take this into consideration when choosing a structure. Garden Life has a wide selection of sub-2.5m buildings available here.
Hopefully these tips and inspirational ideas will help you generate some great ideas for your own square garden design.
by Mark Bailey | Mar 21, 2017 | GardenLife Magazine, How to guide
Want to grow your own veg? 7 tips for planning a vegetable patch
Whether to fuel your gardening passion, improve your eating habits or occupy some free time, vegetable patches can be a surprisingly fruitful (excuse the pun!) and rewarding endeavour. With spring here, you might be thinking about ways to spruce up your garden or spend more time outdoors, so here are 7 things to consider if you’re planning a vegetable patch so you can grow your own veg.
1. Sun – you need plenty of light to grow your own veg
Given that most vegetables want at least 6 hours of sunlight to grow well, you’ll want to find a spot with direct sunlight – it’s definitely a case of the ‘the more the better’ – with tomatoes and peppers especially.
However, don’t stop planning a vegetable patch if you live somewhere less sunny – while no veg will grow in complete darkness, leafy vegetables such as spinach, cabbage, lettuce and (admittedly, you may not want to know this next one) Brussels sprouts, can all grow with about 3 hours of direct sun, or obstructed light throughout the day. You can even grow multiple mushroom varieties from a log kept in complete shade.
2. Size – planning a vegetable patch that is right for you needs
How big a patch you create really depends on the purpose of your patch – for a beginner, a 2m x 3m patch should be more than enough to keep you occupied and the salad bowl full, while a 6m x 4m vegetable patch will feed the most veg-hungry of families.
Most vegetable patches are made up of multiple rows (running north and south for sunlight), and if you are unsure about sizing/future expansion, buying multiple raised beds can offer great flexibility.
You can find a good selection of smaller raised beds on the Green Fingers site, or if you are apt at DIY you could consider planning a vegetable patch that you can build it yourself.
3. Pest control – how to keep bugs off your precious veg
When it comes to pest protection, the best approach is often a natural, non-chemical one. Removing weak plants and weeds and keeping your soil moist and healthy can all prevent future pest issues whilst planting sunflowers attracts ladybirds who will eat small pests like greenflies.
Neem powder – a natural organic by-product from the processing of Indian Neem seeds for oil – is full of essential nutrients and is a natural pesticide (plus most cats don’t like it as well).
You could even install a pond – frogs and toads are great at keeping insect numbers down and can certainly liven up your garden!
There’s more info on ecosystem-based pest control on the Grow Veg website – a very good read if you’re planning to grow your own veg.
4. Drainage – getting the right moisture levels for your veg
Ensuring proper drainage is vital when it comes to growing your own veg – water should be properly absorbed by the roots but not drain away too quickly. Whether or not this happens largely depends on your soil type; for example, clay and silt-based soil tends to drain poorly, while chalk will clump.
If you’re not 100% sure what type of soil you have it is best to check.
As those articles point out, it’s not only the drainage of your soil that will influence your success at growing various type of plants (not just veg) but also the acidity and nutrients of your soil. If you’re serious about wanting to grow champion veg, then there’s a more detailed guide to soil preparation available here.
Once you’ve found out what type of soil you have in your vegetable patch, you should check that your vegetable wishlist is likely to thrive in it – for example, carrots are notoriously difficult to grow in heavy soil, and much prefer light sandy soil.
5. Organic – grow your own veg without the need for chemicals
Whether you make your garden organic – basically, where you don’t use any chemical or synthetic products in growing your patch – ultimately comes down to personal preference.
While an organic patch could be cheaper (if you don’t have to keep buying costly chemical fertilizers and pesticides) and generally better for your health and the environment, it can make heavier demands on your time.
If you want a higher yield for less time and effort, opt to spend money on organic supplements and fertilizer, or choose the non-organic option. Neem (mentioned above), liquid seaweed fertilizer, fish, blood and bone and wood ash are all available with organic certification, and all can significantly improve soil health, fertility and vegetable yields without the need for harsh chemicals.
The National Allotment Society has a good column on organic versus inorganic too.
6. Basic veg – keep it simple when it comes to planning a vegetable patch
Now for the most obvious part – what you actually grow! Herbs, Salad leaves, garlic, onions, leeks, peas and potatoes are all easy and something of a staple whilst of the root veggies, beetroots are also simple to grow; if you’re looking for more of a challenge, plant carrots. Tomatoes and cucumbers are useful in cooking terms as they can be harvested over a longer period, and a lot of varieties don’t require a greenhouse to grow well.
All the well-known garden websites sell a large selection of veg seeds, as will local DIY shops. When planning a vegetable patch also consider how you will store your harvest if it all needs picking at the same time. Leafy greens can be picked at throughout the season, but you may need space to store onions, potatoes, carrots, leeks and garlic.
7. Budget – how much does it cost to grow your own veg?
If you can go without planning a vegetable patch that requires raised beds, or already have the perfect patch, moving into DIY veg production can be done for an extremely low price. For a 2m x 3m patch, expect to pay about £25 for all your seeds; compost shouldn’t be much over £20; your fertilizer or pesticides bill will depend on your approach to organic vs inorganic.
Raised bed are very convenient, but will set you back around £50, and the more complex your design or rows you have, the higher the price tag. All in all, though, it can certainly be a cost-effective endeavour – over time the vegetables pay for themselves (as long as you don’t count the cost of your time!) and your costs will dip after the first season (especially if you make your own compost and harvest your own seeds).
Lastly, don’t forget how convenient it can be to have a little potting shed to work in during the spring and summer (and to store your harvest in autumn).
